Guide · Fabric
Combed vs carded cotton, and yarn count
Two T-shirts can share the same GSM and still feel worlds apart — the difference usually comes down to the yarn. Here's what combed, carded and ring-spun cotton mean, how yarn count works, and what to put in your spec.
Carded vs combed cotton
Raw cotton is spun into yarn through a carding step that disentangles and roughly aligns the fibres. Carded yarn stops there: it still contains short fibres and small impurities, which makes it more economical but slightly coarser and more prone to pilling and loose ends.
Combed cotton adds a further combing step that removes the shortest fibres and remaining trash, leaving only the longer, more parallel fibres. The result is smoother, stronger, cleaner-surfaced and softer yarn — and a higher price. Most premium tees are combed; value basics are often carded.
Ring-spun vs open-end (rotor)
Spinning method matters too. Ring-spun yarn is spun by twisting and thinning the strands into a finer, stronger, softer yarn — often paired with combing ("combed ring-spun" is the common premium spec). Open-end (rotor) spinning is faster and cheaper, producing a slightly coarser, more uniform yarn well suited to heavier, budget-friendly fabrics.
Yarn count (Ne) — what the number means
Yarn thickness is usually given as a count in Ne (English cotton count). The key rule: a higher number means a finer, thinner yarn. A 20s yarn is coarse and heavy; a 30s is a common mid-range tee yarn; a 40s is fine and soft. Finer counts generally feel more premium but cost more and can be less rugged.
| Yarn count | Character | Typical use |
|---|---|---|
| 16s–20s | Coarse, heavy, durable | Heavyweight tees, workwear |
| 24s–30s | Balanced, everyday | Standard T-shirts, polos |
| 32s–40s | Fine, soft, premium | Fashion and premium tees |
Yarn, GSM and construction work together
Yarn count, GSM and knit construction are three dials, not one. A fine combed 40s single jersey at 150 GSM is a soft, lightweight premium tee; a carded 20s at 150 GSM feels very different. Always specify all three together.
How to specify it
- Premium / fashion — combed ring-spun, 30s–40s.
- Everyday retail — combed or carded, ~24s–30s, balanced for feel and cost.
- Value basics / heavyweight — carded or open-end, 16s–24s.
- State yarn type, count, GSM and knit in your tech pack — or send a reference garment and we'll match it.
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