Choosing fabric GSM for T-shirts

What GSM means

GSM = grams per square metre — the weight of one square metre of the fabric. A higher GSM generally means a heavier, thicker, more opaque and often more durable fabric; a lower GSM means lighter, cooler and more drapey. It is the single most common shorthand for fabric weight in knitwear.

What GSM does not tell you

GSM alone doesn't define quality. Two fabrics at the same GSM can feel very different depending on yarn count (finer or coarser yarn), knit construction (single jersey, interlock, pique, etc.), fibre and finishing. Always specify GSM together with knit type and yarn count. See single jersey vs interlock vs pique for how construction changes the result.

Typical GSM ranges by garment

Use these as a starting point — the right weight depends on your market, climate and price point. Confirm the exact spec per programme.

Garment	Typical GSM range	Character
Lightweight / fashion tee	~130–150	Soft, cool, some transparency
Standard T-shirt	~150–185	The everyday workhorse weight
Premium / heavyweight tee	~190–240	Structured, opaque, "boxy" feel
Polo (pique)	~180–220	Textured, breathable
Sweatshirt / light fleece	~250–300	Warm, mid-weight
Hoodie / heavy fleece	~300–350+	Heavy, premium, warm

Higher GSM costs more — but not only because of weight

Heavier fabric uses more yarn, so GSM is a real cost driver. But GSM interacts with order size, yarn count and finishing, so a "heavier = more expensive" rule of thumb only goes so far. If you have a target price, share it and we'll help you balance weight against cost.

How to choose for your market

• Hot climates / summer lines — lighter weights (130–160 GSM) for breathability.
• Everyday retail basics — ~160–185 GSM balances feel, durability and cost.
• Premium / streetwear — 200 GSM+ for a structured, high-perceived-value hand-feel.
• Always pair GSM with knit type and yarn count in your tech pack.